These are common questions for builders looking to gather all of the components for their upcoming build.
Assuming no failed or reprinted parts and following the recommendations for accent parts, the following guidelines apply:
|Model||Primary Color||Accent Color|
|V0||0.5 kg||0.2 kg|
|V1||1.2 kg||0.3 kg|
|V2||1.6 kg||0.3 kg|
|Switchwire||0.7 kg||0.2 kg|
|Legacy||0.8 kg||0.2 kg|
While possible, it is not recommended. Some parts have thinner walls not suitable for the larger nozzles.
The bill of materials (BOM) is a list specifically generated for the defined specifications of the printer being built. The Sourcing Guide is very general for quantities and is not customized. The BOM is considered the absolute reference for items and quantities needed.
These are the options specified to have Misumi tap and drill the hex key access holes in your extrusions. You can remove these options and do this yourself to save ~$40 USD. You will need appropriate tapping tools, oil, and patience to do it correctly which may add back up to $40 when it’s all complete.
No, you can substitute ball spring post-assembly nuts from Ali just as easily in 99% of the manual.
- We are not imparting cutting forces onto the carriages on the rails (ie: side loads), so the low preload and ok tolerances are good for this application
- A set of 7 V2 rails is the cost of one genuine mid-grade THK rail.
- Clean all of your rails, then grease them (there are numerous videos on YouTube on how to do this). Pick your best rail for the X axis, then the Y, use the worst on the Z (if applicable).
No, the Voron V1/V2 are not designed for anything but a MGN9H. The MGN12 rail carriages are wider than the 2020 extrusions and will cause interference issues.
IGUS bushings exhibit a phenomenon called stiction, therefore in small movements the bushings will actually stick instead of gliding, at small detail, this causes detrimental issues. The amount of slop required is unfavorable, tolerances are quite poor. Bushing life is low for the price when compared to Misumi and even standard chinese offerings.
Yes, try to find the following, they are all the same thing, with a different trade name:
- Mic 6
- Alpase K100-S
- Alca 5
- Vista Metals ATP 5
- Alimex 5083 (vendor is very important on this one)
Materials not supported, these are all not designed to take repeated heating and cooling cycles and will warp quickly:
- 7### series not listed above
- 5### series not listed above
The currently recommended lube for the linear rails is Mobilux EP1 or EP2, or the NLGI equivalents. Either Super Lube or EP1/2 is recommended for the extruder gears.
The hammer nuts are intended to be used with the panel clips to allow easier removal and reinstallation. It is possible to apply some locktite and create quarter-turn fasteners for easy removal and installation.
Engineer PA-09, PA-20, or PA-21. Yes, it’s worth the cost.
The gantry wiring should be all 24 gauge wire except for the hot end heater, which should be wired with 20 gauge for safety. This will permit all of the wires to fit within the drag chains. The power wiring (AC and DC) should be at least 20 gauge, preferably larger (18 or 16 gauge).
In metric units:
- Power Wiring/Mains Wiring: at least 1 mm², better 1.5 mm²
- Hotend Heater: 0.5 mm²
- Stepper Motors: 0.25 mm²
- everything else (endstops, thermistors, fans (if wired separately!), …): 0.14 mm²; can also be done in 0.25 mm² for easier sourcing
The BOM currently specifies silicone wire for bend and heat tolerance. For an increased cost, PTFE (or Heluflon) wire is a option. PTFE (Heluflon) insulation is thinner and slicker, making it more effective in the drag chains and granting the cables a longer lifetime.
The BTT SKR controller is inexpensive and extremely capable for the purpose. Either an SKR 1.3 or 1.4 is recommended and can be used. While both controllers have different pin configurations, they use the same controller chip. BTT is no longer producing the 1.3 and it will eventually be unavailable.
The Turbo version is certainly usable, but the additional speed is not required since most of the computing is handled by the Raspberry Pi.
The Duet board(s) will certainly work. However when using Klipper, all of the extra features are not used so the cost is hard to justify.
- They would not be recommended for the Z and E motors (Just E for the Switchwire). Those axis are already geared or screw driven which give them better resolution. Going to 0.9 degree motors means they would then need twice as many steps to go the same distance as a 1.8 degree motor. This combined with microstepping results in more cpu load on your boards and would then start to limit how fast you can drive these.
- They may have some beneficial affect on the XY axis (AB motors) (XZ for Switchwire) which don’t have the gearing that the Z and E assemblies have. Don’t expect miracles though, filament variance is another factor that starts to be an issue as well when attempting small detail.
- While 0.9 motor can be a bit quieter, from all accounts in an enclosed Voron the fans are likely to make most of the noise. So any noise benefit would be negligible.
- Using the BOM spec MCU and Klipper with 0.9deg steppers will limit your theoretical travel speeds greatly. Just running 1/16 microstepping with 0.9deg XY motors and pressure advance with a 1.8deg stepper on the extruder is enough to easily overwhelm the board.
The Dragon standard flow is capable of supporting nozzles up to 0.6mm. If planning on using 0.8mm nozzles or larger, the high flow is recommended.
No, its a case of shit design and metal fatigue waiting to happen.